FutureFashion: Just the Way it Should Be

(Image from Inhabitat)

The FutureFashion show has come and gone, much buzz has been created and many have something to say about, skeptics and supporters alike. An article by Lauren David Peden for Vogue shared some inspiring comments from participants, including Barney’s New York fashion director Julie Gilhart, who was instrumental in bringing together the 28 participating designers. Apparently, Julie grimaces at the phrase “eco-chic”, stating, “I hope we don’t use that word anymore. It’s just the way it should be.…It’s more luxurious to really think about where your fabric comes from, about the impact of it on the environment, and about fair trade and labor issues.” Adding to the idea of this is ‘just the way it should be done’ was Rogan Gregory, the man behind Loomstate and EDUN, who pointed out that compared to even 5 or 6 years ago, finding high-quality, sustainable fabric is much easier. He tells Vogue, “Now, the demand is greater, so there are all these great fabrics available, which makes designing a lot easier. People understand that this is the way of the future….Why wouldn’t you do this?”

Don’t I know it! When I launched Greenloop in 2004, it was like pulling teeth trying to find even a barely sufficient variety of apparel and accessories to offer that met the ethical and aesthetic criteria I was striving toward. Loomstate was one of the first lines we carried and I was ecstatic to find them. Now, I am happy to say, I can hardly keep up with the new lines being submitted to us on a daily basis. I love it. It is proof positive to me that this was the right thing to do, that the market is growing, and in time, we won’t even need phrases like “eco-fashion” anymore because that is just the way fashion will be.

Of course, the clothes themselves must stand alone in terms of design and quality, in addition to their eco-merits, and from what I have seen and read, they certainly made the grade. Marisa Belger, writing for Todayshow.com, did a really nice review of the event, coupled with an interview with Leslie Hoffman, the executive director of Earth Pledge. Here, Leslie discusses how FutureFashion was born, the impact of the fashion industry on the environment, current trends in eco-fashion, and fibers she is particularly excited about (think fish skin leather and pineapple fiber). Vogue also sets forth a descriptive narrative on many of the pieces, as does Abigail Doan at Inhabitat, reporting that, “Despite the diversity in all of these offerings, it was evident that designers still play it somewhat safe when they are considering an organic palette.”

This is not terribly surprising given the goal here: turning heads toward sustainable fashion to illustrate its potential for becoming mainstream. Abigail at Inhabitat tells us to “drop any ideas that this was a fringe event – early verdicts from around the fashion globe called the designs presented gorgeous and ‘to die for’. If there’s one thing eco-friendly collections are proving, it’s that sexy and stunning can come from materials that are also earth-friendly.”

Well said. Presenting designs that are a little easier to swallow that some of the more cutting edge pieces seen on many conventional fashion show runways helps sway a larger group of people than “fashion for fashion’s sake” concoctions. I mean c’mon now….just how sustainable is a 4 foot wide bubble dress that only covers one breast? (Just making a point here….I hope no one has actually made this, but someone probably has). ‘Sustainable’ fashion of course requires good design and innovation, and nobody says it has to be hum-drum, but it’s also about making clothing that people can actually wear every day. At this stage in the game, being too bold on the design front will keep “eco-fashion” in the novelty realm.

Orli Sharaby, writing for PSFK, applauded Earth Share’s FutureFashion initiative as “genuine, thought-provoking, and world-changing” while also pointing out the lack of sustainable consistency in the other “green” initiatives currently on display at NY Fashion Week. Apparently, “no less than three designers gave out canvas totes as swag at their shows”, an “eco” gesture pretty much wiped out by the same designers’ use of decidedly unsustainable textiles coupled with the staging an energy-sucking runway show. You can read the piece here, which also drags DKNY’s orange bike ‘eco’ stunt through the mud.

I have to say I agree with the sentiments here, yet on the other hand, being a “carrot” (rather than a stick) type person, I applaud any effort at increasing awareness and making change, as inconsistent and seemingly in-genuine as it might be. Let me do one more about face here to say that despite my fondness for carrots, green-washing is a real issue and should be addressed. Progress is small increments is one thing, but “green” initiatives with no substance, that are not followed-up with continuous improvements will only serve to confuse consumers, create confusion and mistrust and move us backwards. I could go on here…and I will, in another story.

The one-of-a-kind pieces that make up the FutureFashion collection are not for sale, but they will be on display in the windows of Barneys New York flagship store at Madison Avenue and 61st Street from February 1st – 21st. I love Leslie Hoffman’s statement here, which really sums it up for me: “Enjoy the show, and consider it the beginning of something that will evolve over time. It is not about this season. It is about every season.”