The last day of Portland’s fashion week was last Wednesday, so why the delay in posting? A week on sustainable style is a lot to take in, so before giving an intelligent overview, I wanted to let it all sink in. Now that I’m done with that, let’s get to the reviews!

TRENDS AND TRAIL-OFFS

Four of the five brands featured on the last day (Wednesday, Nov. 24th) were from Portland, Habitude (NYC) being the exception. Wednesday was full of exactly what you would expect from Spring/Summer collections – pastel and vibrant pinks and blues mixed with naturals like creams and browns. Poppiswim a.k.a Poppina was the only complete swimsuit collection there, though I was disappointed to see they didn’t have anything for men.

While Garnish featured only special occasion dresses and outfits, Souchi (infamous in Portland for their cashmere … well … everything) was the only line from the whole week to have models gallivanting down the runway in no shoes. Though I know many women couldn’t imagine a world with no shoes, I enjoy being barefoot as much as possible, so this nod to footwear-free living was much appreciated. Other than the no-shoes part, Souchi’s line was actually quite enjoyable, featuring the largest collection of the night with pieces that could easily be dressed up or down, including a few swimsuits (not sure that I would want to swim in sheep fur, but oh well).

Lucia, who sadly has no website yet, is another Portland line that did a damn good job of delivering a great line. Lots of dresses and skirts in artistic patterns that could could be worn year-round tempted my fabric-loving tastebuds. New York’s Habitude was small but sumptuous at the same time, with an offering that even Fifth Avenue would buy. Flowing and not-too-form-fitting dresses, tops and pants bring to mind a happy afternoon of tea or a sunny Spring wedding, both of which would be very good times to be looking swank.

FULL PFW FAVORITES AND FAILURES

Top 3 Brands I Covet (and why):
1) Stewart+Brown (Having been exposed to sustainable fashion for years, S+B is still one of my all-time favorite brands. They continue to deliver on their green and fair trade commitments, all with high style and a price that truly reflects the impact clothing has on the planet.)
2) Del Forte (Good, all-American organic cotton denim; you just can’t beat that.)
3) Lizzie Parker (Fashion is supposed to be a fun addition to your life, not stressful; this line is a perfect blend of fun and functional.)

Top 3 Brands I Won’t Be Buying (and why):
1) Nike Considered (While I give the big sports brand props for working to reverse their 1980s slave labor image, I’m still very skeptical on their dedication to green production.)
2) Saffrona (While its sister brand, MEWV, is made from sustainable fabrics, Saffrona uses only silks whose origins I’m not aware of. Looking great is important, but being green is just as big a factor in my book.)
3) Amai Unmei (I’ve been trying to gain some affection for this line, but it still falls flat in the personality department for me.)

Biggest Collection: Stewart+Brown (38 looks)

Smallest Collection: 3-way tie! A Broken Spoke, Emily Ryan and Liza Reitz

Most Anorexic-Looking Model: [name unknown]

Best Example of A Bad Prom Dress: Emily Ryan (runner-up: Elizabeth Dye)

Dress that Most Resembles the Capes You Wear When You Get Your Hair Cut: Daniel McCall

Outfit Most Resembling a 21st-Century Superhero: Emily Ryan

Most Applauded Outfit/Dress: Kate Towers

Best Use of Multi-Colored Satin: Holly Stalder

Best Line for Full Figures: MEWV (to my knowledge, the only line at PFW that carries sizes up to 4X)

Collection That I Couldn’t Wear Because I Have Boobs (i.e. need to wear a bra): Michelle Decourcy

Collection That I’d Have To Wear with Pants or Everyone Would Know Where I Buy My Underwear (or when I don’t wear any): Leanimal

WHAT HAVE WE LEARNED?

Is this one week going to change fashion forever? Um, duh, no! Just like the eco-warriors out there trying to transform our transportation and agriculture industries, fashion has some key functional changes that need to be made to help it continue into the next era as a healthy and stable part of society. Having worked in the industry for over 10 years, there is no doubt in my mind that there are people in this industry that are truly full of themselves and don’t realize the kind of impact their choices of fabric and production make on the rest of the world, including their consumers.

While it may not seem as vital as the food we eat or cars we drive, what we wear (everything from underwear and socks to pants and jackets) has a wide reaching impact on growers, fabric makers, sewing and knitting workers, shipping, sales and our own health and well-being. Have you though about just how many people have touched and worked with all the pieces you are wearing? How far did it travel from where it was grown to wear it was made and then to the store and then to you?

We do not live in a sustainable world, but those of us who buy eco-fashion instead of mass produced lines (most likely made under non-fair trade conditions) are making a statement about what we believe is important, just like the colors and styles we wear express a certain part about ourselves. Is buying organic and fair trade clothing enough? No, money can’t buy change alone, but consumer demand is an important factor in helping to change all levels of the fashion market.

Seeing the outpouring of attendees, whether there for the green aspects of the event or not, proves that fashion can be both sustainable and stylish at the same time; any doubts of that should be erased from your mind by now. Portland’s local lines deserve their own mentions since many of them are produced right in the city. While manufacturing in the United States can clearly be more expensive than foreign countries, it has a big impact on carbon reduction when shipping items from overseas.

On my own website and a few local Portland sites, I’ve heard some controversy buzzing about people being displeased with the event’s organization, particularly location, waiting times and display of designers. Did you attend the events? How did you feel about all the goings on?

If you did not attend Portland Fashion Week, I have no doubt that you have your own opinions about sustainable fashion. Open up – tell us what you think of eco-style. What are do you love? What do you hate? What do you want to see changed? What concerns you the most?

The past two days in Portland have been a flurry of fabric and fun. From local style icons to the only European collection at Portland Fashion Week, this has been a very enjoyable 48 hours. Tuesday was host to “The Collections” – a grouping of Portland designers, most of which have collaborated together or been shown side-by-side before. Wednesday was a mix of local and “foreign” fashions, including brands from the UK and our friend to the south (and location of my apartment), San Francisco.

TRENDS AND TRAIL-OFFS

The most anticipated night of the week, Monday’s presentation of “The Collections” displayed Portland’s own brand of innovation, community, and innate attention to comfort. Tuesday was full of demure designs that Marilyn Monroe would have shined in, giving a solid voice to the vivid influence of the 1920s-50s that has been sprinkled throughout the week.

A small glimpse of more fashions for the fellas came on Monday with A Broke Spoke’s punk-meets-preppy set of outfits and Dayna Pinkham‘s tailored, personality-heavy head wear collection. One of the A Broken Spoke ensembles reminded me too much of a mix of Mister Rogers and my grandfather on my mom’s side. Baring that, the rest of the line has some serious charm, using subtle details like tailored cuffs, seams, buckles and buttons to give each piece its own identity. Dayna’s millinery skills would be a pleasant addition to any guy’s outfit, especially the duo-toned fedora. Since I’m always telling my boyfriend to add more color to his wardrobe, I was a bit disappointed to see nearly all of Pinkham’s pieces in black, especially for a Spring collection.

The heavy use of muted gray and shimmering silver immediately reminds me of the dingy skies of Portland, under which so much talent has been displayed during the past 5 days. We’re not talking the ever-popular heather gray shades either – these are flat tones, yet fluid in their hint of blue, like the stray bit of clear sky trying to poke out between the layers of clouds. The big gassy ball that is our sun is always on the other side though, leading designers to feature a hint of fresh yellow; two designers, Elizabeth Dye and Genevieve Dellinger, were shining examples (no pun intended). A hint of color can brighten anyone’s day or mood, even in a city that is content with cloudiness.

Experimental cuts with angles even the MOMA would love had my eye trained on two other designers: Linea by Jess Beebe and Liza Rietz. From big magazines to people on the street, I’ve heard both men and women pondering when the “shapeless/tent” trend will be over. From the looks of these two collections alone, it is clear that comfort and style can not only move in together, but they can marry and have some sexy looking kids. From these two designers, there is only one outfit that made me cringe a bit. Why? Maybe it is the way the model is standing or that dress just doesn’t fit her right, but it makes her look quite “thick” around the middle, which I’m sure most women would like to avoid.

Subdued glamour – those two words describe every single piece from all the shows on Tuesday night. The “good ‘ole days” when women wore their curves with pride and Hollywood thanked them for it, the 1940s and 50s were represented in full force. As with all the lines from “The Collections” on Monday, the Tuesday night designers focused on tweaking classic shapes with details that magnified the psyche behind each outfit.

All the way from the UK, Izzy Lane found undoubtedly chic ways to integrate Scottish wool into their line. Puckered plaids and scalloped skirts were pleasing to my eye, and would be a treat to see on any street or office. Portland’s Blairwear collection was also very office-friendly, but with a clearly less playful tone than Lane’s offerings. A slightly geometric wrap dress was the first piece of the line to be added to my wish list, which was soon followed by an artfully gathered dress that showed off more curves than skin.

All the way from the San Francisco Bay, Tierra Del Forte‘s denim collection is always on my fashion radar. A curious blend of soft pinks, sailor stripes, and cinching denim, Del Forte screams “fancy or casual, denim dominates!” I was most pleased to see that despite the popularity of dark wash denim, first-rate stone washes are still celebrated. Stepping way … way back into time, Lara Miller brings us to the art deco days of the 1920s and 30s. Draped layers take on a whole new meaning when they’re made from smooth bamboo, tinted a universally flattering mossy green, and paired perfectly for that special Easter dinner you have in the works.

Oh Anna, how we love thee. Now hunkered down here in Portland, Anna Cohen worked for fashion houses in Italy before starting her own now-infamous sustainable collection. A dedicated member of the Portland Fashion Week Advisory Board, Anna’s Spring/Summer 2008 line is one of the most seamless blends of every fashion trend from the 1920s through the 1970s I’ve ever seen. Before I go any furthur, I must say that I hate orange. Well … I used to hate orange; it’s one of those colors that hardly looks good on anyone. I don’t know how, but Cohen found just the right shades between vibrant orange and pinky coral to compliment the human skins’ subtle shades. It’s pretty obvious that orange isn’t a very Spring-like color, but seeing such a mainstream eco-fashion designer using it for her Spring/Summer collection gives me hope that the seasonal color boundaries are coming down. I bet all those falling leaves from the many trees in Portland helped to inspire her vision, both in color and shape.

FAVORITES AND FAILURES

Top 3 Brands I Covet (and why):
1) Anna Cohen (This one doesn’t really need an explanation … just look at the collection; hello, drool!)
2) Genevieve Dellinger (Repeat after me, “Color is my friend. I am not afraid of color.”
3) Elizabeth Dye (I just can’t resist a woman who uses yellow, especially on textured tights.)

Biggest Collection: Anna Cohen

Smallest Collection: 3-way tie! A Broken Spoke, Emily Ryan and Liza Reitz

Only Swimsuit Seen So Far: Lara Miller

Outfit that Most Resembled the 1980s: Blairwear

Best Example of A Bad Prom Dress: Emily Ryan (runner-up: Elizabeth Dye)

Dress that Most Resembles the Capes You Wear When You Get Your Hair Cut: Daniel McCall

Best Dress for Layering During those Brisk Spring Mornings: Lara Miller

Outfit Most Resembling a 21st-Century Superhero: Emily Ryan

Most Applauded Outfit/Dress: Kate Towers

Best Use of Multi-Colored Satin: Holly Stalder

Dress Marilyn Monroe Would Have Worn to Her Civil Ceremony Wedding: Blairwear

ALL GOOD THINGS MUST END

One solitary day left here at Portland Fashion Week, but don’t tune your Internet connection to another frequency (is that even possible?). We’ve still got the final day review and the week-long wrap up coming your way!

Wednesday:
1) Habitude
2) Poppiswim
3) Garnish
4) Lucia
5) Souchi

Aysia has been doing a fantastic job of giving you all an overview of the designers from each evening‘s festivities at Portland Fashion Week – a big thank you to her! With half of the week’s events etched into the attendees minds and wallets, how about we take a look back at what has happened so far? What have the trends been? Which brands have made a big splash and which ones barely made the proverbial fashion waters ripple? What exciting designers and events are still left to come? All of these questions and more will be answered right … about … now.

A few days of rain didn’t stop all the cohorts of clothing to come out in droves, proving that though Portland is not a “mecca”, like New York or Paris, the city known for its love of Birkenstock sandals and fleece can pack them in.

TRENDS AND TRAIL-OFFS

Pastels have prevailed so far, but since these are the Spring/Summer 2008 collections, that is not much of a surprise. I’ll be the first to say that I adore the blooming flowers that dominate the season, but seeing brands like NatureVsFuture, Leanimal and Idom breaking out of that mold to embrace royal blue, rusty orange and deep red was refreshing. Fashion should be fun, flattering and forgiving, not stifling formal, whether it be in relation to the color, cut, or combination of pieces. Trying to stay confined to seasonal shapes and shades does nothing but to limit our imaginations – break free!

As with most fashion weeks, women’s lines are plethoric, but from the few lines that have featured men’s gear thus far (such as Nike Considered, Sameunderneath, and the all-men’s custom suit line Duchess), we all can agree that baggy jeans and t-shirts should be done away with for good. Most men don’t like to put too much effort into their wardrobe – being too “put together” makes you seem a bit sissy, no? Mixing and matching pieces is easier than ever and the right cut will put a swing in your step that everyone will notice. Now if I could just convince my boyfriend to wear knee-length shorts more often (a Spring staple at the show), his wardrobe would double in size!

Not one tacky, bejeweled dress or gaudy fur coat has hit the bamboo runway in the past three days, and for that I am most thankful. Sustainable fabrics and fair production are the two key elements to eco-fashion, but there is even more. We’ve all seen the shirts and Gap and the jeans at the mall; most of us also know that this stuff lacks true quality or personality. Daring details has helped to set each collection of designs at PFW apart so far, yet all the pieces are versatile and wearable. Making a line of green clothing is pointless if it isn’t going to be able to replace our old favorites in the back of our closet … you know what I mean, like that sweater that you meant to get rid of years ago but just can’t seem to part with it? The fine line between classic comfort and cutting edge creativity is constantly being danced on as each model takes her walk down the runway. If you want this stuff to sell, and for eco-fashion to eventually become a part of all fashion available for sale, it has to blend these two concepts seamlessly.

FAVORITES AND FAILURES

The gloves have come off so strap yourself in. It’s time to talk about who I’ve loved and who I’ve hated … no, not my old boyfriend, I’m talking about the fashion lines silly.

Top 3 Brands I Covet (and why):
1) Emily Katz (work, weekend, wedding, interview, afternoon tea – you can wear this stuff anywhere while feeling cozy and confident)
2) Stewart+Brown (I’ve loved their Lengthened Tees for almost two years; their basics are immaculate and each new collection makes me look at both eco- and all fashion in a new way)
3) Leanimal (special event or a feel-special kind of day, these are the dresses to wear, but make sure to leave the jewelry at home; it would only distract from the cutting-edge-but-not-too-quirky designs)

Top 3 Brands I Won’t Be Buying (and why):
1) Amai Unmei (love the pink jacket, but the rest of the collection lacks personality and distinction)
2) Duchess (ONLY because I’m not a guy, but if I had a penis, I’d be all over these suits like white on rice)
3) Saffrona (my need for formal dresses/outfits is “limited” a.k.a. my idea of a nice night out is going to a pizza joint and I haven’t been invited to a wedding in 10 years)

Most Pleasing Use of Prints: Lizzie Parker (butterflies make every woman feel beautiful and free; the fabric is from ModGreenPod)

Best Office Attire: Sofada

Best Line for Full Figures: MEWV (to my knowledge, the only line at PFW that carries sizes up to 4X)

Best to Go Boarding, Blading or Biking In: Nike Considered (duh, that was obvious; I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Nau has a show next year – they rock)

Biggest Collection: Sameunderneath (runner-up: Stewart+Brown)

Smallest Collection: Duchess (runner-up: Amai Unmei)

Collection That I Couldn’t Wear Because I Have Boobs (i.e. need to wear a bra): Michelle Decourcy (runner-up: Stewart+Brown)

Collection That I’d Have To Wear with Pants or Everyone Would Know Where I Buy My Underwear (or when I don’t wear any): Leanimal

THREE DOWN, THREE TO GO!

Such a long post and with three more days to go, I’m sure I’ll need to post more frequently. Here’s a list of the designers still to hit the runway, and special marking (***) on those lines which I am most eager to see:

Monday:
“The Collections”
A Broken Spoke ***
Dayna Pinkham
Elizabeth Dye ***
Emily Ryan
Genevieve Dellinger
Holly Stalder
Kate Towers ***
Linea by Jess Beebe
Liza Rietz
Daniel McCall

Tuesday:
1) Izzy Lane ***
2) Blairwear
3) Del Forte ***
4) Lara Miller
5) Anna Cohen ***

Wednesday:
1) Habitude ***
2) Poppiswim
3) Garnish
4) Lucia
5) Souchi ***

Last, but by no means least, here is a collection of the outfits that make me wish I had a sugar daddy (or a limit-less credit card):

(click the image for a full view; all images courtesy of Nina S)

The Sameunderneath crowd came out on Saturday night showing support for the brand by wearing their favorite bamboo hoodies and colorful graphic prints. The tone was a little more hip and urban than the previous night, with slightly mellower numbers. Before the show Ryan Christenson, head honcho at Sameunderneath, was seen chilling out and socializing with friends and strangers alike, betraying no notion of the chaos that was going on backstage. The shows got under way about 45 minutes late (pretty good actually), and the night opened with Seattle’s Lizzie Parker. Continuing with the bamboo jersey trend, she showcased a very north-west sensibility, but in fun punchy colors. Layers over layers of leggings, tanks, and hoodies in coral, butter yellow, and white were punctuated with darling cropped jackets in a big butterfly print. The showstopper at the end was a coral tee layered under a white tube dress decked out in frothy feathers.
Up next was Duchess, a custom suit company for the gentlemen in our lives. A parade of handsome male models dressed in perfectly constructed suits ranging in inspiration from 40′s gangsters to 70′s James Bond films left us all wishing for something a little more dapper in our day to day lives.
Nike Considered opened their show with bike-friendly looks in various shades of taupe, black, blue and surprisingly enough deep purple. Simple clean lines were the focus, and details were kept low key and functional. Harlequin-style stitching was seen on several jackets, but the most interesting detail was a detachable drawstring hood that opens in the back for ventilation.
Next up was Seattle-based brand Alula, showing paper bag waist trousers and lots of pleats. The color palate was similar to Lizzie Parker with shades of coral, yellow, and white along with blush pink and a light sky blue.
After the intermission the real show began. Now everyone loves a good gimmick, and Sameunderneath had the best. Lining up five models sitting in school desks, Ryan Christenson was the professor of Sameunderneath 101. When asked the question “What is Sameunderneath?” the models each shot up their hand and were called on one at a time to proceed down the runway. The usual elements were all there, with bamboo tees and hoodies in great colors and graphics. But something was different this season; a greater knowledge of fit and function that only comes with experience. The collection was generally more polished but still retained that certain urban vibe that makes it a favorite of so many. The show was finished off by celebrity guest Stana Katic (from the new film, Feast of Love) sashaying down the runway in a custom blue, ‘red-carpet’ dress winking for the cameras as if to say, “Are there any more questions?”

Photography Credit: Nina Sage – Click here to see the whole show

The first night of Portland Fashion Week started off with a bang! With high hopes, the fashion elite filed into an industrial warehouse turned posh club to pack the house for the opening night shows. After a few hours of mixing and checking out the booths, the crowd made their stiletto-clad way to the runway. The shows started off with the incredible designs of Nature vs. Future, who honestly, stole the show right from the beginning. The collection showed the diversity and ease of wear that has made this brand such a favorite of the uber-hip green crowd. Certain standouts included a duo of red dresses that will have everyone at ‘hello’, and a stunning skirt suit that takes ‘power dressing’ to a whole new level. Nature vs. Future is for the woman we all want to be; intelligent, sophisticated, subtly sexy, and incredibly chic! Next to show was Amai Unmei with a collection of hemp/silk jackets and shift dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on Jackie O. Olivia Luca followed, showing a bridal inspired collection of streamlined gowns in hemp/silk blends that would make any woman feel like a princess. Saffrona went for a more Grecian-inspired look with frothy wrap details. MEWV, a new endeavor of the Saffrona Co., self- styled as “a pure take on the sustainable market”, whose pieces are made sans zippers, hooks and buttons, showed some of the most original work in bamboo jersey we have seen in a while. Particularly stunning was a cobalt blue mini dress with a super low back. After an intermission, Sofada by Alice Dobson, showed a collection that was somewhere between 1955 malt shop and California Dreamin‘. If this first night is any indication of what we can look forward to this spring, we have a very sexy season coming up! Stay tuned for more news, designer interviews and runway photos! The week has only begun!

Photography Credit: Nina Sage – Click here to see the whole show